Sunday, May 27, 2012

"Mama, I'm coming home..."

Well friends and family members, today was another full day, but there was a bittersweet feeling to the day. Our last day in London. We walked a circuit around St. Paul's Cathedral (where Princess Dianna got married) and then we all got to run a short distance in a British road race so that we could cross the course and get to the Millennium Bridge. We crossed the Thames and went to the Tate Modern. The Tate Modern is a wonderful museum located in an old power plant building. The building was remodeled and opened 10 years ago and they are already adding on to the museum. The Tate Modern boasts the highest number of visitors per year for any art museum. Yes, friends, that trumps the Louvre!

We had a special opportunity to see a special exhibit while we were at the museum, Damien Hirst. He's the guy who has animals suspended in formaldehyde and pharmaceutical installations. It was a challenging show in many ways, but very interesting to see this once in a lifetime show. They had a special special exhibit of a diamond encrusted skull by Damien Hirst that we had to queue up for. The line moved pretty quickly and it was quite the sight! It was specially displayed a small dark room with very concentrated lighting just on the artwork. This would never have made ADA in the United States! There were a few steps that had to be made in near complete darkness. Perhaps this was part of Mr. Hirst's plan for the exhibit. Hmmm. That was our last museum on the trip and now everyone is: packed, packing or going to bed. We have a very early wake-up call and the van collects us at 5:15 in the morning. So, with that, I am signing off.

A VERY SPECIAL THANKS to Dr. Mick Luehrman who did the majority of the planning for our wonderful trip. He has been a fantastic leader, instructor and tour guide!

Friday, May 25, 2012

Tate Britain and Victoria and Albert Museum


May 25

Tate Britain and Victoria and Albert Museum

Today we were off again to traipse through the museums. This morning we went to the Tate Britain which is famous for it’s collection of Turner paintings and drawings. In some of the literature I read while I was in the museum, I learned that in the Turner Bequest there were over 20,000 pieces of paper! Turner’s sketchbooks are beautiful and full of very sensitive little drawings. We were able to compare Turner’s paintings with Constable and Turner’s palette of colors was so much warmer looking! The museum is currently under renovation so the museum was broken up into two separate spaces and you had to go outside and walk around the museum to get to the rest of the collection. Sally and I went to the Turners first so that is what we saw. Some of the students stayed in the other part of the museum and were able to see some Millais and Gainsborough, Hogarth and a special Picasso exhibit.

Next we had lunch in the Gloucester Road area before going into the Victoria and Albert Museum. The V & A Museum is a bit like our Smithsonian. I always see something different there and I have come to the conclusion that the Brits are hoarders. I think the V&A has one of everything, period. Mostly we looked at furnishings and interiors from the Middle Ages to the 1960’s. We also walked through the jewelry collection. That was really amazing. The V&A has fashion, furniture, architectural moldings and details paintings, sculpture, glass, ceramics, etc.. There is a whole room full of wrought iron. Really, wrought iron.  They have objects from every continent with special rooms of Chinese art and artifacts, Japanese, Korean, Iranian, etc. There was a whole room of tapestries, a room full of Asian area rugs too! Even though we had more than three hours there, it was not near enough time to see even a third of their holdings!

Tomorrow is a free day and everyone is off doing different things. We have some folks heading to Stonehenge, and others to Camden Town Market. Some of us are headed to the Natural History Museum and others are going shopping. It is late tonight, so you may have to wait for a day or so to get pictures.

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Wallace Collection and The National Gallery


May 24
Today we went to see the Wallace Collection. The Wallace Collection just happens to be near Oxford St which is THE STREET for shopping in London. I think some of our scholars were a bit distracted by all the beautiful shop windows. Oxford Street is currently canopied by hundreds of Union Jack flags and was very festive looking (maybe the professor was a bit distracted too). But we have a job to do and carry on we must!

The Wallace collection is an excellent, high quality collection of fine art, furniture, decorative arts and arms and armor. The collection was amassed over five generations and was given to Britain in 1897 by Lady Wallace, widow of the last descendent in this branch of the Wallace Family. The family was based in both London and Paris and the collection reflects that influence.
One of the most famous images in the Wallace collection is “The Swing” 1767 by Jean-Honore Fragonard. This is a very flirtatious piece from the Rococo period.  This painting is beautifully executed and has a sense of lightness and humor.

I am particularly excited by the furniture collection. The Wallace houses some of the finest pre-revolution French furniture in the world. Of particular note on the furniture is the work of Andre Charles Boulle (1642-1732). He was the cabinet-maker to the king during the reign of Louis XIV. He lived in the Louvre and his special appointment to the king protected him from the rules of the furniture guild. This allowed him to work with both wood and metal. Boulle invented and perfected a technique of marquetry that resulted in twin furniture pieces with figure-ground reversal. So he stacked brass and tortoiseshell on top of each other, cut his design through both pieces. So one furniture piece was brass with a little tortoiseshell and the other one was tortoiseshell with a little brass.

We stopped for lunch in St. Martins of the Field (famous for their musical concerts). They have created a café in the church crypt so we ate our lunch in a beautiful brick, groin vaulted space and shared the floor with a few dead people. They weren’t very hungry so it all came out ok.

After lunch, we went to the National Gallery. This is a beautiful museum with paintings from the Middle Ages through Cubism. Some of the artists represented in this museum were DaVinci, Rubens, Turner, Rembrandt, Gainsborough, VanDyke, Monet, Renoir, Degas and a large format Seurat painting. On a typical day, the students have some questions that they must answer about the museums that we attend. On this day it was more of a scavenger hunt and they had a list of paintings to find in the museum and then list the room number in which they found it. The students seemed to enjoy the change of pace.

Oxford Street

Twin Boulle Cabinet

Twin Boulle Cabinet #2

Wallace Collection Room
After all this museum stuff, Sally and I went back to St. Martin in the Fields and enjoyed a little Baroque music to go with our experiences of Baroque paintings. The concert was delightful and included two of the Bach Brandenburg Concertos (#4 and #50). It was a lovely day and we are very tired.  

Wandering among the dead and the ancient.


May 23, 2012.

Today we started off with a tour of Westminster Abbey, the world’s most famous church, where kings and queens have been crowned and buried since 1066. Edward the confessor, Queen Elizabeth I, and Mary Queen of Scots are just some of the members of the monarchy.  The poet’s corner contains the graves of Geoffrey Chaucer, Lord Byron, Dylan Thomas, and Charles Dickens. In the scientist’s corner tombs of Isaac Newton, Michael Faraday, Charles Lyell (“father of Geology”) and Charles Darwin can be found. Sally was awed to be in the presence of these pioneers of science and some of the students found it odd that Darwin would be buried in a church.

After eating lunch in Leicester Square we strolled through Covent Garden on the way to the British Museum.  Eliza Doolittle would not recognize Covent Garden now – it’s a market with trendy shops, street performers and eateries.

The British Museum holds one of the finest collections of antiquities in the world, including the controversial Elgin Marbles, which consist of marble sculptures that once were part of the Parthenon in Greece. The Greeks want their marbles back, but the Brits hold on to them because they saved them from certain ruin.  The Rosetta Stone, discovered at the end of the 1700’s, is the most popular piece at this museum. With writing in 3 languages, it was the key to unraveling the meaning of hieroglyphs, and is therefore, one of the most important artifacts in the world.  Egyptian mummies, including those of animals, and a large Easter Island head can also be found here.

Several of us bought half-priced tickets to see London Theater.  We highly recommend both “Wicked” and “Jersey Boys”.

Covent Garden

Krista and her new comic book

Elgin Marbles from the Parthenon



Portland Vase (Oldest known decorative glass - Rome)

Rosetta Stone
Mummy Cats

A familiar sight in the Tube
The group with London phone booths

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Changing of the Guard and Museum of London


May 22
Today we decided to have a little easier day for our students. We tried to go to see Westminster Abbey where William and Kate got married, but there was a special memorial for the Chilean Navy being held and the Abbey was not open for visitors. We did, however, get to see a lot of British ladies in really unique hats! After that, we walked up toward the Royal Mews (horse stables) to watch the changing of the Horse Guard and then on to Buckingham Palace to watch the Changing of the Guard. Unfortunately,  they had a lot of Buckingham Palace area closed off in preparation for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. They were installing the grand stands for that event. But we did get to see a parade of British Soldiers going down the mall.


Obviously a British Lady in a cool hat


Westminster Abbey





























We had a picnic lunch in Green Park because the weather was really beautiful today. Sunny and in the upper 70’s.  After lunch, we went to the Museum of London. The Museum of London traced the chronological history of London from 350,000 b.c. to the present. For the early prehistory times, they had some really interesting animal fossils and early tools. I thought some of the more interesting parts of the museum were the film that we watched about the Great Fire of London and also the Victorian Village that they had set up. They also had some really interesting fashions too. All in all it was a pretty good day and we tried not to tax our young scholars too much. Tomorrow, we will try again at Westminster Abbey and also go to the British Museum. 


Tudor House model in Museum of London

Paris to London via the Chunnel


May 21
This day started with a very early wake up time. The vans to take us to the train station arrived promptly at 7:30 am and we were off on a new adventure.  We took the Eurostar fast train to London.  I slept through most of the ride… a testament to how tired I was! I woke up somewhere in the Chunnel. One interesting thing about the train ride was that the air displacement when the train entered the tunnel was a little hard on our ears.

Waiting to go through customs at Gare du Nord, Paris

Alex and Chryssa on the train


Andrea, Krista Kristine and Christina on the train
St. Pancras Station all dressed up for the Olympics

Dr. Luehrman taking pictures in St. Pancras Station, London


Once in London, we found our way to the Omega Hotel and dropped off our luggage and went in search of some lunch. Some of us went into a Pub and ordered Fish and Chips, a British standard. It was somewhat startling to hear English again! Our students have a new subway system to get used to (The Tube) and, of course, you have to remember to look left before crossing the street. After lunch, we took everyone to The Courtald Gallery. This gallery is pretty small and today there weren’t many people. After the crowds of people at the Louvre and the Musee D’Orsay, it was very pleasant to get to stand and really look at the paintings. The Courtald Gallery has a truly exquisite collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works. Several of the more famous works are the Van Gogh Portrait with the bandage over his missing ear, and the famous Manet painting “A Bar at the Folies-Bergère” (1881-82).


Manet painting “A Bar at the Folies-Bergère” (1881-82) 

Van Gogh, Self Portrait with a Bandaged Ear, 1879
Renoir, La Loge 1874

St. Stefans Tower, Big Ben
Iconic Red Phone Booth




After the gallery visit, we took the students briefly by the Westminster area where they could see St. Steffan’s Tower which many people refer to as “Big Ben” . From here they could also get a preview of Westminster Abbey where William and Kate were married. Most of the students were tired and interested in getting moved into their rooms. So we let them go get dinner on their own. (After making sure that they could navigate the Tube!)

Monday, May 21, 2012

Market and Eiffel Tower



May 20
Today started with the Grenelle Market. We gave everyone a much needed break with our museum visit not until 1:00pm. So everyone had a little time to sleep in and enjoy the open air market that comes to our neighborhood on Wednesdays and Sundays. This market is a wonderful place to see and purchase everything from food to fresh flowers to costume jewelry to clothes not to mention great little souvenirs like miniature Eiffel Towers. I saw a lot of our students walking around with bags of goodies so I think they really enjoyed it. Everything is so beautifully displayed that there are also great photo opportunities at the market. We were planning an evening picnic for the Eiffel Tower so some students were able to buy picnic items like fresh fruit, cheese and baguettes.






During the afternoon, we went to the Museum of Decorative Arts. This museum contains period rooms filled with furniture and accessories. This was a particularly interesting museum for the interior design students. This museum’s holdings begin with the Middle Ages and extends through to the current decade.  Beyond furniture we saw candle sticks, vases, decorative boxes, china and silverware. It was really interesting to listen to the audio guide for a brief explanation in English. All of the museum signs are in French.
So, as I mentioned we planned to walk up to the Eiffel Tower in the evening so the students could ride/walk up the tower and get a bird’s eye view of the city of Paris. When we got there, the line for the elevators was very long so many of our students opted to run up the stairs. I believe there are 700 stairs to get to the first floor of the Tower. From that point, the line for the top floor of the Tower is quite a bit shorter. There is no option to climb stairs to the tippy top. Those that did ride up to the very top are rewarded with a very nice view of the whole metropolitan area of Paris.



Rain drenched picnic



Musee Louvre


Some of us chose not to go up in the tower so we began our picnic. Unfortunately, before the evening was over, the clouds blew in and it started to rain. At first it was just a few drops but soon the rain was coming down in sheets. Most of us got drenched on the way home. I am still waiting for my shoes and socks to dry!